Somewhere past Kaza, where the Spiti river gathers its tributaries, a side valley opens to the south. This is the Pin — a slash of green fields and ochre cliffs that holds one of India's most extraordinary protected areas, the Pin Valley National Park. For anyone travelling the long road from the Kullu valley into Spiti, it is the wildest, quietest detour of the whole trip.
A national park in the cold desert
Pin Valley National Park protects a stretch of high Himalayan cold desert that shelters more than twenty species of mammals and birds, several of them rare and endangered. Its most famous resident is the snow leopard, which prowls these ridges in winter; alongside it live the Himalayan ibex, blue sheep, red fox and the striking birds of the high country. The park also forms a natural corridor linking Spiti with the Great Himalayan National Park across the mountains, and its trails carry serious trekkers over the Pin-Parvati and Pin-Bhaba passes.
Mudh, the road's end
The last motorable village in the valley is Mudh (also spelt Mud), a cluster of whitewashed homes at about 3,810 m on the banks of the Pin river. It is the base for almost everyone who comes here — a place of prayer flags and enormous silence. Days are spent walking to viewpoints above the village, scanning the far slopes for ibex, or simply sitting with a cup of tea as the light moves across the peaks.
How to reach it from Naggar
Pin Valley lies deep in Spiti, so this is a journey rather than a day trip. From Naggar the route runs to Manali, through the Atal Tunnel and over Kunzum Pass to Kaza — the main Spiti town — which takes a long day of driving. From Kaza it is about 50 km and roughly two hours on a rough road to Mudh. A daily bus also leaves Kaza in the afternoon and returns early the next morning, though a private vehicle gives you far more freedom.
Practical tips
- Best time: June to September, with late September and early October bringing golden autumn colour. The roads close under snow in winter.
- Park entry is modest — around Rs 50 for Indian visitors and Rs 200 for foreign nationals.
- Foreign travellers need an Inner Line Permit for the Spiti region; carry copies of your ID.
- Acclimatise before you come — Kaza and Mudh both sit above 3,600 m, so take the altitude seriously and drink plenty of water.
- Stay overnight in Mudh rather than rushing in and out; the valley reveals itself slowly.
Pin Valley is remote, humbling and unforgettable — the kind of place that recalibrates what you think of as quiet. Plan your Spiti loop with a night or two in the Kullu valley on either side, and let Ghar in the Hills in Naggar be your soft landing before and after the high road. Rest, refuel, and set off for the cold desert well prepared.