Climb the forested slope above Naggar, past terraced fields and old cedar, and you reach the quiet hamlet of Thawa — and one of the oldest, loveliest little temples in the Kullu valley. The Murlidhar Krishna Temple is a stone shrine believed to be around a thousand years old, and it rewards the short walk up with both history and one of the finest valley views near Naggar.
A thousand-year-old stone temple
Unlike Naggar's famous wooden pagodas, Murlidhar is built of carved stone in the classic north-Indian shikhara form — a pyramidal tower rising over the sanctum. The base preserves carving in the late-Gupta manner, hinting at just how old the site is, while the upper part of the shikhara was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1905 that shook the whole Kangra–Kullu region. Time and weather have softened the stone, but the craftsmanship still shows.
The deity
The temple takes its name from Murlidhar — Krishna as the flute-player (murli meaning flute). The sanctum enshrines a striking black-faced image of Krishna with his flute, and alongside him are idols of Radha, Garuda and Laxminarayan. It is a working village temple, so you may find a priest performing puja or locals stopping by; Janmashtami, Krishna's birthday in late summer, is the temple's big day, when Thawa fills with song and celebration.
How to reach it
- Distance: Thawa sits about 5 km from Naggar. The shortest way is on foot — roughly a 25-minute uphill walk from the village through fields and forest.
- By road: A vehicle can take you most of the way if you would rather not climb; from Manali it is about 15–16 km.
- Best time: Spring and autumn are ideal for the walk. Carry water and start early to catch the clear morning views before cloud builds over the peaks.
Make a morning of it
Because the temple is small and the setting is the real draw, it pairs perfectly with a slow Naggar heritage walk — the castle, the old wooden temples in the village and the Roerich gallery. The path up to Thawa is itself part of the pleasure, passing the kind of quiet Kullu countryside that day-trippers to Manali never see.
If you would like a base right in the village to set out from, Ghar in the Hills is a homestay in the heart of Naggar — an easy start for the walk up to Thawa and back in time for lunch. Lace up, take it slow, and let one of Kullu's oldest shrines be your reason to wander uphill.