For decades, the only way from Manali into the high desert valley of Lahaul was over the Rohtang Pass — a slow, often snow-blocked climb that closed for half the year. Then the Atal Tunnel opened, and a journey that once took hours became a quick, year-round drive. Today, a day trip to the other side of the mountains is one of the easiest and most rewarding outings you can plan from Naggar.
A record-breaking tunnel
The Atal Tunnel runs 9.02 km beneath the Rohtang range at around 3,100 m. Built by the Border Roads Organisation and certified as the longest highway tunnel above 10,000 ft in the world, it slices through the mountain in a brisk ten to fifteen minutes. You enter on the green, forested Manali side and emerge into Lahaul — dry, wide open and dramatically bare. The change of scenery is genuinely startling.
Sissu: the first stop
About 11 km beyond the north portal lies Sissu, a quiet village in the Chandra valley and the most popular halt for day-trippers. Its star attraction is the tall Sissu waterfall tumbling down the far hillside, best in late spring and summer when the snowmelt is strong. There is a small lake, a riverside meadow, simple dhabas serving hot Maggi and chai, and the kind of huge mountain silence that makes you stop talking. Keen travellers can push further to Keylong or Jispa, but Sissu alone makes a satisfying day.
How to plan it from Naggar
- Getting there: Drive from Naggar up to Manali (about an hour), then on to the tunnel's south portal and through to Sissu. Allow roughly two to two and a half hours each way.
- Start early: Leave by 7–8 am to enjoy the valley and beat the afternoon build-up of traffic at the portals in peak season.
- Open year-round: The tunnel stays open through winter, but the Lahaul side gets heavy snow — check road and weather conditions before setting off in the colder months.
What to carry
Even on a warm Kullu morning, Lahaul can be cold and windy, so pack a fleece or jacket. Bring sunglasses and sunscreen for the strong high-altitude sun, plus some cash, as digital payments can be patchy across the tunnel. There are no fuel stops for a long stretch beyond Manali, so fill up before you go.
A trip through the Atal Tunnel feels like stepping into a different country and back again, all before dinner. Ghar in the Hills, a homestay right in Naggar village, makes an ideal launch point — close enough to Manali for an early start, quiet enough to come home to once the day's adventure is done.
Ready to see both sides of the Himalaya in a single day? Book your stay in Naggar and let the hills be your base camp.