Naggar was once the capital of the Kullu kingdom, and that long history shows in its temples. Scattered along the village's narrow lanes are shrines that date back nearly a thousand years, built in wood and stone by craftsmen whose techniques are still admired today. A slow morning spent walking between them is one of the most rewarding things to do in Naggar.
Tripura Sundari Temple
The most striking of them all, the Tripura Sundari temple is a beautiful pagoda-style wooden structure crowned with a conical topknot and fronted by a carved raised hall. Dedicated to the goddess Tripura Sundari, it is the focus of an important local fair and remains a living place of worship rather than a museum piece. Step quietly inside and you will often find the deity dressed in a red and gold chunari.
Gauri Shankar Temple
A short walk away, the little Gauri Shankar temple is an 11th-century shikhara-style stone temple dedicated to Shiva. Unusually for the region it has no protective wooden roof, which leaves its intricate stone carvings fully on display. It is small, but the detail rewards a close look.
Murlidhar Krishna Temple
Set a little above the main village, the Murlidhar Krishna temple enshrines a black-faced Krishna playing the murli, or flute, which gives the temple its name. The weathered stone shikhara carries fine old carvings, and the spot is as loved for its quiet and its valley views as for the shrine itself.
And many more
These are only the best known. Naggar also holds the Chaturbhuj, Jagannath and several Devi temples, along with smaller wayside shrines you will stumble upon as you wander. Part of the pleasure is simply following the lanes and seeing where they lead.
Practical tips for temple-hopping
- Dress and etiquette: Dress modestly, remove shoes before entering, and ask before photographing inside shrines.
- Timings: Most temples are open through daylight hours; early morning is peaceful and good for photographs.
- Getting around: The temples are within walking distance of each other in and around the village, so comfortable shoes are all you need.
- Best time: Spring and autumn for pleasant weather and clear mountain light.
To explore Naggar's temples at an easy, unhurried pace, it helps to stay right in the village. Ghar in the Hills is a cozy homestay just a short walk from these ancient shrines, and the perfect base for a morning of slow wandering.