Deep in the cold desert of the Spiti Valley, on the bank of the Spiti River, stands one of the oldest continuously working Buddhist monasteries in the world. Tabo Monastery was founded in 996 AD, and if you make the long journey from the Kullu valley to see it, you will understand why art historians call it the "Ajanta of the Himalayas."
A thousand years of murals
Tabo was established by the great translator-lama Rinchen Zangpo during the second flowering of Buddhism in the western Himalaya. What survives is extraordinary: nine mud-brick temples and a scatter of chortens whose inner walls are covered, almost floor to ceiling, in murals, frescoes and stucco figures more than a thousand years old. The main Assembly Hall, the Tsuglagkhang, is the showpiece, its walls crowded with bodhisattvas, mandalas and inscriptions in faded reds, ochres and blues. Photography is not allowed inside the old temples, which is part of why the colours have lasted, so bring your eyes rather than your camera for the interiors.
What to know before you go
The monastery sits at around 3,050 metres, about 10,000 feet, so you will already be well into thin mountain air. It is usually open from roughly 6 am, when the morning chants begin, until about 7 pm, and there is no formal entry fee, though donations are welcome. Most visitors spend two to four hours here, and it is worth climbing to the meditation caves cut into the cliff above the village for the view down over the valley. A guesthouse run by the monastery and a few village homestays make Tabo a peaceful place to break the Spiti journey overnight.
How to reach Tabo from Naggar
There is no quick way, and that is part of the appeal. From Naggar you cross into Spiti either over the Kunzum Pass via Kaza, open roughly June to October, or by the longer, lower route through Kinnaur along the Sutlej. Either way, Tabo is a journey of two to three days with sensible overnight halts; never attempt it in a single push, both for the roads and for the altitude. Kaza, about 47 km away, is the usual base, with shared taxis and buses running down to Tabo.
Best time to visit
Mid-June to early October is the realistic window, when the Kunzum route is open and the high passes are clear. July and August are warmest but can bring landslides on the approach roads, while September offers crisp light and thinner crowds.
Spiti is a serious expedition, so it pays to acclimatise gently in the greener Kullu valley first. Spend a couple of nights at Ghar in the Hills, our homestay in Naggar, catching your breath among the orchards before you climb into the high desert. When you are rested and ready, point the car towards Kaza, and Tabo's ancient walls will be waiting. Book your Naggar base and start your Spiti story here.