Naggar was the old capital of Kullu for centuries — a fact you can still feel walking around its castle. But in the mid-17th century the seat of power moved down the valley to Sultanpur, on the edge of present-day Kullu town, and that is where the royal family's palace still stands today. For anyone curious about the history behind Naggar Castle, a visit to Sultanpur Palace completes the story.
A palace with a story
The Rupi Palace at Sultanpur was built around 1660 by Raja Jagat Singh, the Kullu ruler who shifted his capital here from Naggar. It's the same king whose name is tied to the legend behind Kullu's famous Raghunath cult and the valley's grand Dussehra. The palace was badly damaged in the great Kangra earthquake of 1905 and rebuilt afterwards, and it remains a private residence of the descendants of Kullu's royal family — so it's a living heritage building rather than a ticketed monument.
What to see
The real treasures here are the paintings. The palace holds a collection of miniature murals in a distinctive blend of the Pahari hill style and later colonial influences, depicting rural Kullu life, deities and courtly scenes. The traditional timber-and-stone architecture, carved balconies and quiet courtyard are lovely in their own right. Because it's a family home, access to the interiors can depend on who is around and whether the family permits a look — ask politely, and treat it as you would someone's house.
Practical tips
- Getting there: Sultanpur is on the southern edge of Kullu town, about 22 km from Naggar — roughly 45 minutes by car, or take a bus to Kullu and a short auto ride from the main bus stand.
- Timings & fees: There's no formal ticket; as a private residence, daylight hours on weekdays are best, and a respectful request is the norm. Don't expect a museum-style tour.
- Combine with: The Raghunath temple nearby, Akhara Bazaar for Kullu shawls and caps, and the riverside Dhalpur maidan where Dussehra is held.
- Best time: Any time of year; October, during Kullu Dussehra, is especially atmospheric but very crowded.
Sultanpur is an easy half-day, and it turns a shopping trip to Kullu into something with real historical texture — you leave understanding how power, faith and art moved through this valley.
Naggar, where the story began, makes the perfect base for exploring Kullu's heritage. Ghar in the Hills is a warm homestay in the village, a short drive from Sultanpur and a stroll from Naggar Castle itself. Book a stay and wake up to the same valley the old kings once ruled.
