On the old Hindustan-Tibet road, just before Kinnaur gives way to Spiti, a small village sits beside a still lake at around 3,600 metres. Nako is not a place with a long checklist. It is a place to slow down: walk around the water, look into a thousand-year-old temple and watch the light change on the bare mountains behind the village.
The Lake
Nako Lake is small, lined with willows and poplars, and the village houses cluster around it. In summer boats sometimes drift across it; in autumn the trees turn gold and red, which makes September and October especially pretty. In winter the surface freezes solid. An easy walk around the edge takes about half an hour and is a good gentle way to begin acclimatising.
Guru Rinpoche's Footprint
Close to the lake, a rock is believed by locals to bear the footprint of Padmasambhava, the teacher who carried Buddhism across the Himalaya. A small shrine with a statue stands above it. It's a quiet spot, so take your shoes off where asked and keep your voice low.
Nako Monastery (Lotsava Jhakang)
The village complex of temples is traditionally linked to the translator Rinchen Zangpo and dated to around the year 1025, though some records suggest a slightly later date. It has four halls, of which the oldest, called Dukhang, is the largest. Photography inside is prohibited, so take in the old wall paintings with your eyes. The buildings were damaged in an earthquake in the 1970s and have since been restored with conservation work.
Getting to Nako
- From Reckong Peo: about 103 km, roughly 4 to 5 hours.
- From Shimla: about 310 km, usually broken into two days with a night at Sarahan, Kalpa or Sangla.
- From Manali or the Kullu valley: the route runs via Kaza and Tabo, and is normally done over two days.
- Last stretch: a short branch road leaves National Highway 5 near Yangthang and climbs about 7 km to the village.
Fill your fuel tank at Tapri or earlier, as supplies thin out beyond. Local buses between Reckong Peo, Nako and Kaza run, but timings are irregular, so check the day before.
Permits and Best Season
Indian visitors normally need only a valid photo ID, while foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit, so check the latest rules before travelling. The best months are May to October, with September and October offering cool days and clear views. July and August can bring landslides on the road, and winter snow often shuts the route.
Tips
- Spend a night in Nako if you can, rather than treating it as a lunch stop.
- Carry warm layers, even in summer; nights are cold.
- Drink plenty of water and go slow on the first day at altitude.
- Pair it with Chitkul, Kalpa or Tabo for a fuller route.
Start and End in Naggar
If you're looking for a base in Naggar before or after a long mountain road trip, Ghar in the Hills is a cozy homestay right in the village, where a warm meal and a view of the Kullu valley make a good welcome home.
Nako is best enjoyed unhurried. When your route is planned, book your stay at Ghar in the Hills and give your trip a comfortable beginning or end.
