Most travellers hurtle past Mandi on the highway between the plains and the mountains, barely slowing down. That's a pity, because this old riverside town on the banks of the Beas is one of the most temple-rich places in Himachal — so full of shrines that it's long been called Chhoti Kashi, or the little Varanasi of the hills. If you're driving to or from Naggar, or just want a change from valley villages, Mandi rewards a leisurely wander.
Why 'Chhoti Kashi'
The saying goes that where Kashi (Varanasi) has eighty temples, Mandi has eighty-one. The town was founded in the early sixteenth century by Raja Ajbar Sen, and its old core is dense with carved stone Shiva shrines, many of them centuries old. The nickname stuck because of this sheer concentration of temples clustered around the river and the old bazaar.
The temples to see
Start at the Bhutnath Temple in the heart of the old town, built in 1527 by Raja Ajbar Sen and still the spiritual centre of Mandi. A short walk away, at the confluence of the Beas and its little tributary the Suketi, stands the Panchvaktra Temple, named for its striking five-faced idol of Shiva — only three faces are visible from the front. Both are fine examples of the shikhara-style stone architecture that sets Mandi apart from the pagoda temples of the upper Kullu valley. Wander the lanes and you'll stumble on many smaller shrines and old wooden houses along the way.
The Shivratri fair
If you can time it, Mandi's week-long International Shivratri Mahotsav (usually February or March) is the town at its most alive. Hundreds of village deities are carried in from the surrounding hills in bright palanquins to pay their respects, and the streets fill with processions, music and crowds. Even outside the festival, the riverside ghats and the old palace area are pleasant to explore.
How to reach Mandi from Naggar
Mandi lies roughly 90 km south of Naggar — figure on about two and a half to three hours by road, going down the valley through Kullu and Bajaura. Regular buses run from Kullu and Manali to Mandi, and shared or private taxis are easy to arrange. It works well as a stop on the way in or out of the valley, or as a long but doable day trip.
- Best season: March to June and September to November; the town sits lower and warmer than Naggar.
- Time needed: half a day to see the main temples and the old bazaar.
- Entry: the temples are free; dress respectfully.
Mandi makes a natural first or last stop on a Kullu valley trip. Base yourself up in the hills at Ghar in the Hills in Naggar, and fold Mandi into your journey down the valley — a quiet town of old stone and river light that most visitors never think to stop for.