Deep in Kinnaur, where the Baspa river carves a green valley beneath snow peaks, the old village of Kamru climbs a hillside just above Sangla. Crowning it is one of Himachal's most atmospheric monuments: Kamru Fort, a soaring wooden tower that has watched over this corner of the Himalayas for something like a thousand years.
The seat of the Bushahr kings
Kamru was the original capital of the Bushahr dynasty, the royal house that ruled a vast swathe of the western Himalayas for centuries before shifting its seat down the Sutlej to Sarahan and later Rampur. Built in the layered timber-and-stone style typical of Kinnaur, the multi-storey tower has survived earthquakes that flattened lesser buildings — a testament to the old Himalayan builders who bound wood and stone together without mortar. The coronation traditions once tied to this fort still give it deep significance for the people of the valley.
Temples within the walls
The fort complex is also a living place of worship. Its upper floors hold a shrine to Kamakhya Devi, brought here, legend says, from the famous temple in Assam, while nearby stands a temple to Badrinarayan — a Himachali echo of the great Badrinath shrine. Below the fort, the village itself is a maze of carved wooden houses and small temples worth an unhurried wander.
Visiting the fort
Kamru sits at around 2,600 m, a short but steep walk up from Sangla town. Out of respect for the deities, visitors are traditionally asked to wear a Kinnauri cap and to tie a waistband or sash before entering the inner courtyard — caps are usually available at the gate, and a local caretaker will guide you. Photography is often restricted inside the shrines, so always ask first.
Practical tips
- Getting there: Sangla lies in the Baspa valley of Kinnaur; from Naggar it is a two-day journey via Rampur and the Sutlej gorge, so plan an overnight stay in the valley.
- Best time: May to October, when the passes are clear and the orchards are heavy with apples; the Baspa valley is especially lovely in autumn.
- Wear sturdy shoes for the uphill climb and carry water.
- Dress modestly and follow the caretaker's guidance on caps, sashes and photography.
- Foreign travellers should carry ID, as parts of Kinnaur near the border require permits.
Between its living temples, its royal past and the sheer drama of the Baspa valley around it, Kamru rewards travellers who like their history wild and unpolished. If you're mapping out a Kinnaur road trip, break the journey in the Kullu valley and let Ghar in the Hills in Naggar be your base at the start and finish — a quiet place to plan the route and recover from the mountain roads.