Food in the Himachali hills is simple, warming and made for cold mountain air. If you are travelling through the Kullu Valley, it is worth eating beyond the usual menu of noodles and parathas. Here is a short guide to the dishes worth asking for.
Dham: The Festive Thali
Dham is the traditional feast served at weddings, festivals and village gatherings. A typical spread includes dal, rajma, rice, curd, a tangy boor ki kadi and sweet jaggery rice. Khatte chane, a sweet and sour dish of black chickpeas with gram flour, jaggery and mustard oil, is an important part of it. It is traditionally eaten seated on the floor, and the meal is usually vegetarian.
Siddu
Siddu is a steamed wheat bread, somewhat like litti, made from dough that is allowed to rest before cooking. It is usually served hot with ghee, a lentil or mutton dish and vegetables, and is one of the most comforting things you can eat on a cold morning.
Kullu Trout
The cold rivers of the valley are known for trout. Marinated with minimal spices and cooked simply, it is usually served with boiled vegetables and steamed rice. It is best eaten fresh, close to where it was caught.
More Dishes to Try
- Madra: soaked chickpeas in a spiced yogurt gravy, originally from Chamba, eaten with rice or chapati.
- Chha gosht: lamb cooked in a gravy of yogurt and gram flour with cardamom, bay leaf and asafoetida.
- Tudkiya bhath: a mountain-style rice pulao with lentils, potatoes and yogurt.
- Aloo palda: potatoes in a tangy-sweet yogurt gravy.
- Bhey: sliced lotus stem cooked with ginger, garlic and gram flour.
- Aktori: a pancake of buckwheat leaves and wheat flour, made at festival time.
- Metthe chawal: sweet rice with dried fruit, raisins and saffron.
- Babru: a popular street snack, often enjoyed with chutney.
How to Eat Like a Local
Dham is best found at village feasts and festivals, so ask locals if one is on during your visit. For everyday meals, look for small family-run eateries where the menu is short and the food is cooked to order. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian options both exist, and many dishes are mild, so ask for extra chilli if you like it hot.
A homestay is often the best place to taste home cooking. At Ghar in the Hills in Naggar you can ask about local meals and seasonal produce, a gentle way to taste the valley.
Plan Your Tasting Trip
Autumn, with apple harvest and village festivals, is a lively time to eat your way through the valley. Book a stay at Ghar in the Hills, arrive hungry and start with a plate of siddu.
