Cross the Atal Tunnel from Manali and you leave the green Kullu valley behind for the bare, dramatic mountains of Lahaul. Deep in this high-desert valley, near the little town of Udaipur, stand two of the most remarkable ancient temples in Himachal — one where Hindus and Buddhists worship side by side, and one covered in some of the finest wood carving in the western Himalaya. Together they make a memorable two-day journey from Naggar.
Trilokinath: where Shiva meets Avalokiteshvara
The Trilokinath temple sits above Udaipur, around 45 km from Keylong. What makes it extraordinary is that two faiths share it in complete harmony. Hindus revere the shrine as a temple of Lord Shiva, while Buddhists worship it as Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. The white marble idol at its heart has six arms and is thought to date to around the 12th century. A stone inscription found in 2002 suggests the shrine itself goes back to the late 9th or early 10th century, built in a distinctive Shikhara style. Pilgrims from Lahaul, Ladakh and Kinnaur have circumambulated it for centuries, prayer wheels turning beside Hindu offerings.
Mrikula Devi: a masterpiece in wood
In Udaipur town itself stands the Mrikula Devi temple, plain on the outside but astonishing within. Its wooden ceilings and panels, carved in the 11th century, depict scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata in intricate detail. The presiding deity is a form of Kali as Mahishasura Mardini, shown with eight arms. For anyone who has admired the carved doorways of Naggar, this is the same Himalayan woodworking tradition at its very finest.
How to reach Udaipur from Naggar
- Route: Naggar to Manali, then through the Atal Tunnel into Lahaul, down to Tandi where the Chandra and Bhaga rivers meet, and west along the Chandrabhaga (Chenab) to Udaipur.
- Time: Around five to six hours one way, so plan an overnight stay in Keylong or Udaipur rather than a same-day return.
- Transport: A private taxi is most comfortable; HRTC buses run from Manali towards Keylong and Udaipur in season but are slow.
Best time to visit
Lahaul is a summer-and-autumn destination. The route is reliably open from roughly June to October; by late autumn snow begins to close the high passes and the valley shuts to casual visitors through winter. Carry warm layers even in summer, drink plenty of water as the altitude is real, and dress modestly at both temples.
A trip like this is easiest with a settled base to return to. Ghar in the Hills in Naggar makes a quiet home from which to plan your Lahaul journey and rest afterwards. Set off early, keep your camera ready for the moment the tunnel spits you out into another world, and give these thousand-year-old shrines the unhurried visit they reward.
