For years, crossing into Lahaul meant a white-knuckle drive over the Rohtang Pass. Since the Atal Tunnel opened, the bare, beautiful high desert on the far side of the Pir Panjal is barely two hours from Manali — and Keylong and Jispa, its two friendliest halts, make a wonderful overnight escape from the green Kullu Valley.
Getting there
From Naggar, drive up to Manali and through the 9 km Atal Tunnel, which emerges near Sissu in Lahaul. Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti, sits about 71 km from Manali at 3,080 m (10,100 ft) — a run of two to three hours in good conditions. Jispa lies a further 23 km up the Bhaga river at around 3,200 m, on the historic Manali–Leh highway.
Keylong
Keylong is a proper working town — the only one in Lahaul — strung along a hillside above the Bhaga, with a bazaar, fuel and the valley's administrative offices. What draws visitors is the ring of ancient gompas on the slopes around it. Kardang Monastery, across the river, is the largest and oldest in the valley; Shashur and Tayul gompas sit above the town amid prayer flags and long views. It's an unshowy place, but that's the charm: terraced fields, poplar avenues and the sense of a Himalayan crossroads.
Jispa
Jispa is quieter still — a scatter of houses, a small monastery and wide riverside meadows where the Bhaga runs clear and cold. Because it sits at a gentle altitude, it's the classic overnight stop for anyone heading on to Leh, giving the body time to adjust before the giant passes further north. For a short trip from Naggar, it's simply a gorgeous, calm place to sit by the river and watch the light move across bare mountains.
Best time to visit
June to September is the reliable window, when the roads are clear, the glacial streams are full and day temperatures are pleasant. Deeper into autumn the nights turn bitter; by winter, heavy snow closes the onward roads even though the tunnel keeps Keylong reachable. Carry warm layers whatever the month — Lahaul is high, dry and cold once the sun drops.
Doing it from Naggar
This is best as an overnight rather than a rushed day trip: the scenery deserves an unhurried pace, and the altitude gain is real. Start early, keep the day you cross gentle, and drink plenty of water. Naggar, at around 1,800 m, is a sensible place to spend a night first and ease your body upward. If you want a warm base in the Kullu Valley to bookend the journey, Ghar in the Hills is a homely spot in Naggar village where you can plan the route over breakfast and return to a hot meal.
Practical tips
- Fuel up in Manali — filling stations are scarce beyond the tunnel.
- Carry cash; card and network coverage are patchy in Lahaul.
- Watch for signs of altitude sickness and don't over-exert on day one.
- Check road and weather updates before setting out, especially at the shoulders of the season.
Keylong and Jispa show you a completely different Himalaya — spare, luminous and deeply peaceful — without a difficult journey to reach it. Base yourself in Naggar, pick a clear weather window, and cross the tunnel into Lahaul. Book your valley stay and start planning.
