Winter in the high Himalaya can feel like a long, silent pause. But once a year, deep in January, the Lahaul valley on the far side of the Rohtang range lights up — quite literally — for Halda, its most important festival. If you are staying in the Kullu valley in mid-winter and want to witness something genuinely rare, Halda is worth the journey.
What Halda celebrates
Halda is Lahaul's festival of fire and light, and it works as a kind of local new year for the tribal communities of the Pattan, Gahar and Chandra valleys. It is often compared to Diwali for its blaze of flame against the dark. At its heart is the worship of Shishkar Apa, the goddess of wealth, prosperity and protection, invoked to guard the community and bless it with a good year ahead.
The fire ritual
As dusk falls, villagers emerge from their winter homes carrying bundles of cedar-wood torches — the halda that gives the festival its name. Guided by the local lama, who fixes the auspicious moment, the torches are lit together and gathered into great bonfires. The spiralling flames are an offering to Shishkar Apa, and the joining of many small torches into one fire is a vivid symbol of the whole community's unity and shared strength. Feasting, local barley brew and warmth against the cold follow late into the night.
When it happens
Halda falls in the second or third week of January, timed by the lunar calendar and reaching its peak around Magh Purnima. Exact dates shift each year and are set locally, so always check ahead before you plan a trip around it.
Reaching Lahaul from Naggar
Since the Atal Tunnel opened beneath the Rohtang range, Lahaul is reachable year-round from the Kullu side — a huge change from the days when the valley was cut off by snow all winter. From Naggar you would drive up past Manali and through the tunnel to the Lahaul villages of the Pattan valley around Keylong.
- Getting there: Naggar to Manali to the Atal Tunnel to Lahaul; a long day's drive, so start very early
- Season: deep winter — expect snow, ice and sub-zero nights
- Prepare: heavy layers, a snow-ready vehicle or a reliable local driver, and flexibility, as weather can close the road at short notice
- Respect: this is a living village festival, not a show — ask before photographing people and follow your hosts' lead
Halda is a demanding trip in the depths of winter, and it rewards travellers who are prepared and patient. Many visitors prefer to base themselves lower down in the milder Kullu valley and make the run up to Lahaul on the day. Ghar in the Hills in Naggar makes a warm, snug base for exactly this kind of winter adventure.
Plan your winter trip
If you want to see a side of Himachal that few visitors ever do, time a January stay around Halda. Book your winter stay at Ghar in the Hills and let us help you plan the journey over to Lahaul.