Beyond the Atal Tunnel, the road north from Manali enters a different world: drier, wider and ringed by snow peaks. About 18 km before Keylong, at roughly 3,160 m, sits the village of Gondhla and its remarkable fort. For travellers based in Naggar, it makes a rewarding long day, or a pleasant stop on a longer Lahaul journey.
A tower of stone and timber
Gondhla was the seat of the Thakurs of Gondhla, who governed the Chandra valley in Lahaul on behalf of the Rajas of Kullu. The fort is a seven-storey tower built in the Kath-Kuni style, with alternating layers of stone and timber that help buildings flex through earthquakes. Accounts of its origin differ. One tradition credits Raja Man Singh of Kullu around 1700, while local memory names Thakur Rattan Pal. Whichever is true, the cedar beams are said to have been carried over the Rohtang Pass from the forests near Manali.
The tower is no longer a working residence. Inside are old weapons, furniture, thangkas, scriptures and family deities. The painter Nicholas Roerich, who lived in Naggar, is recorded as having painted the fort in the early 1930s, a nice link back to your home village.
What else to see nearby
- Guru Ghantal Monastery: a Tibetan Buddhist monastery traditionally said to date to the 8th century, rebuilt after earthquake damage in 1975.
- Tandi: the confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers, a short drive on.
- Keylong: the district headquarters, with cafes and a few monasteries.
How to get there
From Naggar, drive towards Manali (about 21 km), then through the Atal Tunnel and onward to Gondhla. Expect a long day: leave early and allow several hours each way. Shared buses run towards Keylong from Manali, and taxis are easy to arrange locally. Opening hours and any entry charge are not fixed, so ask in the village.
Best season
The road is generally open from roughly late spring to autumn. In winter, heavy snow can close high sections and the village is quiet. Check road conditions before you leave, and carry layers: even in summer it is cool at this altitude.
Tips for visitors
- Take it slowly; at over 3,000 m, drink water and avoid rushing.
- Carry cash, as ATMs are scarce beyond Manali.
- Dress modestly and remove shoes in any shrine or monastery.
- Fuel up in Manali before heading out.
If you are looking for a base in Naggar, Ghar in the Hills is a cozy homestay right in the village — book your stay to wake up to valley views before a big day in Lahaul.
Planning a trip beyond Rohtang? Start early, pack warm and let Gondhla's old tower show you another side of Himachal. Reach out via Ghar in the Hills and we will gladly help with route ideas.
