Some places make you crane your neck and wonder how on earth they were built. Chehni Kothi, a soaring tower of stone and timber tucked into the folds of the Banjar valley, is one of them. Reaching it takes a little effort, but the reward is one of the most extraordinary pieces of traditional Himalayan architecture you'll ever stand beneath.
A tower without cement or nails
Chehni Kothi is a fortified Kath-Kuni tower — built entirely from alternating layers of dry stone and interlocked wood, with no cement and no nails. The name itself comes from kath (wood) and kuni (corner), describing how the timber beams lock together at the building's edges. This flexible technique is what has helped the tower survive centuries of Himalayan earthquakes. Today it is often described as one of the tallest surviving Kath-Kuni structures in Himachal Pradesh, and even after losing its upper storeys in the great 1905 Kangra earthquake, it still rises many floors into the sky.
Fort, temple and legend
Historians believe the tower was originally raised as a defensive stronghold for a local ruler, later becoming a shrine. Beside the great tower stands a smaller, beautifully carved Kath-Kuni temple dedicated to Shringa Rishi, a much-revered sage-deity of the Banjar area, and the site is also associated with the goddess Chehni. It remains a living place of worship, so you may find it quiet and sacred rather than set up for tourists — part of its charm.
How to reach Chehni Kothi
- The approach: The tower is not on the road. From the nearest village you'll walk a short but steep 1–1.5 km uphill on a stone path — allow 30–45 minutes at an easy pace.
- From Naggar: Chehni sits in the Banjar valley near Jibhi, reached by driving south down the Kullu valley and over towards Banjar. It's a long day trip (roughly 3 hours each way by road), so an early start helps, or pair it with a night in the Jibhi–Banjar area.
- Best time: April to June and September to November offer the clearest, driest walking. Avoid the peak monsoon weeks, when the path can be slippery.
- Tips: Wear grippy shoes, carry water, and be respectful at the temple — ask before photographing rituals or interiors.
Why it's worth the detour
Chehni Kothi is not a polished, ticketed attraction, and that is exactly why it stays with you. Standing in a small mountain hamlet, looking up at a wooden tower that has weathered earthquakes and centuries, you get a rare, unfiltered sense of the old Himalaya.
If you'd like an unhurried valley base for adventures like this, Ghar in the Hills is a cosy homestay in Naggar — a comfortable place to plan long day trips and return to warm food and valley views. Come and explore the quieter corners of the Kullu region.
